Part of what makes the Earnshaw brand so unique and attractive to every level of collector or watch enthusiast is the attention to even the smallest details in every timepiece in the collection. The ES-8085 Longitude Regulator Open Heart Automatic - is a typification of this ideal to bring high-end watchmaking techniques imbibed within the legacy and pedigree of the Earnshaw name into a timepiece that is pleasantly affordable.
The case is a fluid, slightly bulbous yet shape that is pronounced and hugs the wrist comfortably even while measuring at 42 mm in diameter and 15.5 mm in height. While being pronounced and obvious the watch is nonetheless ergonomically pleasant to wear.
The dial work of the ES-8085 is a tribute to the minutest details found in the Earnshaw ranges. A 24 hour display with a radial etching creates a wonderful level of subtle contrast against the rest of the dial. This is done for practical and ornate reasons and highlights the 24 hour hand which reads off the hour against a separately applied circular ring, which is on it own, delicately chamfered with remarkable precision and care. This top half is set against a sheet of Côte de Genève applied dial detailing, creating that almost iridescent bamboo like finish so revered in “Haute Horlogerie” where the Earnshaw logo can be found at the 9 o’clock position.
Such detailing would need to be matched with appropriate hands and indeed this watch has those hands. The hour and minute hands are long and sinewy yet are perfectly proportioned and gives enough body to able the user to make time-reading effortless, even against such a layered and complicated dial. The bottom half of the dial sees the exposed flywheel set upon an ornate layer upon layer of plates in various finishes creating a beautifully elaborated complete dial.
The watch straps to the wearer courtesy of a supple yet robust genuine leather strap and the signature “E” buckle that is a hallmark of all Earnshaw timepieces.